Seven days with an elderly British couple (she 74, he 72) at the sea on a 33 feet sailing boat, and aware of the fact that this is going to be their first contact with the sailing boat in their lives- it was definitely a challenge.
The decision to spend their holidays in such an adventurous spirit, in harmony with the laws of nature, was brought a couple of months before the same departure; that's why our contacts were so frequent. They were bothered by many questions, starting from the clothes, weather, marinas, prices, safety of sailing and many more.
They haven't left anything to chance what has been to expect from the people with rich life experience. The day of departure has finally arrived.
DAY 1- THE DEPARTURE
Trogir is the city of great history and fantastic tourist offer. ACY marina with its____ posts, one of the most frequent Adriatic marinas, brings together nautical guests who rarely miss a chance to have a walk in the old part of the city.
The guests arrive on our 10 meter sailing boat with luggage and food, which we discussed over together through our many contacts and, after official acquaintance; we start with the organization of life on the boat. We discuss the possible risks and I prepare the crew for the sailing. I convince them that we're ready for sailing, that we can do it and that we will do it, but in the same time I'm aware of these great question marks hanging over their heads which we will deal with as we proceed.
Filled with food and drinks we are heading to Milna on the
The sea in front of the Brač channel was literally boiling; wind 25-30 knots which in the channel blows from east, sea 3.
I'm cutting the route and we're sailing next to Šolta heading to the small village Stomorska. I'm calling Mladen, the most important person for moorings in a village which doesn't have too many of them, ca.10. The reservation is made- now we can breathe more easily.
The crew didn't expect such a mess on board the first day but they accepted it as a sort of baptism of fire and added that new experience to the old ones.
Stomorska primarily offers you peace and excellent gastronomy with very, I say, very reasonable prices. The young and everyone else feeling young can spend a great time at the amusement centre with good music, snooker, darts and football game.
Next to the grocery store and a cash machine there is also the post office and the new toilet for the boaters with the shower facilities. Apart from the ensured berths there are also the electricity supplies and the drinking water.
At stronger north wind the sea level can rise a little so the nights can sometimes be «wobbly».
DAY 2
Waking up, breakfast, short morning walk and Stomorska sightseeing. The weather wasn't promising, so we decided to sail the yesterday's route-Milna, on the
Two marinas, some ten waitresses, restaurants and pizzerias can satisfy even the most demanding guests. The prices are fairly reasonable.
We had lunch at the tavern «Two dolphins»-a nice little tavern with a warm and welcoming ambiance. The fish was on our menu. We took hors-d' oeuvre, soup, 1.5 kg grouper with potatoes and one bottle of good wine. It cost us 100 euros- satisfying.
The rain made us look for shelter so we came back to our boat and it turned out to be an excellent idea after such a plentiful lunch. After the afternoon rest we went for a walk. The map we got at the tourist office includes the sightseeing of the century- old churches, chapels and a cemetery. It was an unforgettable feeling.
DAY 3
Sunny morning, traditional English breakfast that lasted for almost half an hour. We do it more quickly. I ran from the boat to buy today's lunch that will also serve as a surprise to the guests.
I'm buying the anchovies from the fisherman called Ante (how else!?). Perfect.
We're heading for Palmižana at Pakleni otoci, my personal marina number one. The reason for that doesn't lie in the fact that there one can see the Croatian and world jet-set but the fact that such a beautiful nature, beaches, caves and natural purity one can rarely find along the Adriatic coast nowadays.
The only downside of this place is the numerous guests who come from the neighbouring
I'm sending my guests to the beach announcing that I'll be the chef for today and that the whole thing will be a surprise.
Everything is set-anchovies, salt, tomatoes and vine. The guests have also arrived. They're not trying to hide their enthusiasm. They are paying me so many compliments; I don't know which way to look. Well, young and too shy.
This simple and genuine sailor's lunch stayed in their memory, I'll presume, for a long time.
We dined at «Toto» restaurant, heartily recommended. The personnel consist of the young, capable and pleasantly talkative people. The dinner was in a complete accordance with the today's lunch. Home cooking- squids, the speciality of the house. They were fresh, put on the hot oil for a minute or two, than braised for another 40 minutes with a variety of Mediterranean spices and with cooked potatoes or polenta (maize porridge) as a side-dish, and regardless the predominated black colour- it was delicious! A+!
Stuffed with all the food we had eaten, we all went towards the boat. The whole crew went to sleep while I ... well, I visited a fantastic little new café bar in marina situated near the sea and to the sounds of some relaxing instrumental music and a sorbet tried to help to my «suffering» stomach.
DAY 4
The weather forecast was not promising-strong wind NW. We're getting the boat and all our knowledge ready. We’re heading to Šolta but this time towards its western part- the village Maslenica. The sea has risen quite a lot but, now we are a much more experienced crew enjoying every wave.
Maslenica is a small fisherman's village very similar to Stomorska, but at the same time, very different.
This part of the island seems to be lover and gentler. There are around fifteen berths. At western winds the sea can really be rough so the staying is sometimes quite unpleasant. There are water and power supplies but without toilets, I'm afraid.
There are grocery store, tourist office (with the possibility of exchanging the money), three taverns, a café bar and Martinis Marchi, a very fancy restaurant, placed within a recently restored estate- a remarkable edifice which apart from the excellent gastronomy offers top- quality lodging.
They aim towards the so- called elitist tourism, so the prices are formed according to that orientation. The beaches are easily reachable by ten minutes walk. We had meat for dinner accompanied by the good home-made red vine which was a pleasant change.
DAY 5
The morning started with swimming. Our guests were brave, but it was too cold for me.
The weather forecast was finally promising-a real summer day, so we headed for Drvenik Veli to visit Dražen. He is the owner of a restaurant «Jere» and is considered to be the master of the octopus made in baking lid or «pod pekom». No one knows what he does or how he does it, but it's always delicious. We've known each other for so many years, but as far as the recipe is concerned, his lips are sealed.
He will talk... eventually! Everything comes to those who wait.
We are dropping anchorage, letting go almost 40 meters of chain. The sea is deep and covered with seaweed so the depth is actually welcoming.
We're mooring the boat in the port which doesn't offer water or power supplies. Dražen and his great cuisine and a homey atmosphere were just as I expected them to be. Our guests were more than pleased. The village itself has got a post, a grocery store and a car-ferry service with Vinjerac.
DAY 6
The morning began with the walk. Everyone was busy preparing for the last day of our cruise. On our way back we are stopping next to the tuna hatchery. They are feeding them well. The cage is about to explode. With the approval of the divers and the employees, one can dive and watch that big sea animals. This time, we aren't going to do that.
The wind is strong. Maybe a little bit too strong, but for this reason we are sailing fast towards Trogir, our starting point. On arrival to Trogir, we exchange our addresses, say goodbyes, ″hugs and kisses″ and we part. It’s usually like at the end of every cruise, fast and without any special emotions.
But when the thoughts, emotions and experiences settle down... now, that's another story. This time was the same.
Among all the words of thanks, the thing that means the most to me is that the next summer they will be joining me again with the rest of their family. Wonderful people!
Thanks again to YACHT-BASE for providing such a excellent service for both guests and skippers.
